3 climbing shoes for 3 disciplines | Adam Ondra visited La Sportiva

Category : Shoes

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Great beginner shoe

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I’m just getting in to bouldering and got sick of using the grip-less, soft rental shoes. These work well and are fairly comfortable! I usually wear a size 12 (shoes in photo are 12) in my normal shoes because I like a more “snug fit” but for these I ordered a 13 and good thing I did! They are definitely an upgrade from the rentals and seem to take into consideration the “downsizing” people always say you should do. Seems to be a great beginner shoe!

So we are here in valdez in la sportiva headquarters, and we are talking about climbing shoes. The climbing shoe is almost more than a tool. Okay, you can like your harness. You can like your quick draws, the rope they are important, but these tools are somehow external to you. The climbing shoe is part of you.

That’S why, when i wear a climbing shoe, even if i’m not climbing, i start to feel to imagine to dream to expect climbing i’ve been basically living in my climbing shoes for so many years. Since i was a little kid and today it was quite interesting to see how these powerful tools are actually born. There’S a lot a lot of work, try to think how is stressed by the power of the food inside. If you think that you wear a very, very tight shoe and you close it and already there is a lot of pressure in the walls of the shoe, then you put that shoe in a two centimeter foothold you press on it. Can you imagine how much pressure there is?

I think the climbing shoe is one of the most sophisticated shoes in the world. That’S why it’s so beautiful to work on climbing shoes and that’s why i think that the evolution of this tool is still very long too. Before to see the end of the evolution, we have to work still quite much knowing how much handwork go into the production of one single pair of a climbing shoe. It makes me appreciate even more. There are some climbing shoes in our collection.

They have more than 130 operations on one single shoe, not the pair one single shoes and every a single step is done by the hands of an operator so compared to other shoes. The average of the minutes to build the climbing shoes is much higher to compare to running shoes or something else, it’s a very, a very delicate tool. So i had the opportunity of working today on a new model on the new mantra. It was really interesting to see because there are so many different steps, so i guess it requires a lot of patience. A lot of precision i think, i’m better off just by climbing than producing shoes, the shoe is done it climbs better than me.

I think, out of all pieces of equipment that every climber needs climbing shoes is the one that really defines you as a climber. We have free shoes based on the disciplines, so first we have cobra 4.99. It’S the only shoe that is completely specific for that discipline. For speed and you couldn’t use it for any other else, for example, super light heel hook, because you don’t need to heal hook while speed climbing.

Then you have this layer of pu which avoid damages on the upper, because when you speed, you touch many times the footholds like in this part, when you do speed that you don’t need a tight shoe, you, you need a shoe that adapts really well to the Shape of your foot, that’s why we decided to make it in microfiber. Yes, it’s something that is concept just to go faster. This show the theory as the best compromise in between supporting and adapting. Why? Because we have a new soul, completely a new soul.

So here it’s very very thin here, it’s thicker and what does it mean that here you have somehow the capacity of being powerful, also on small staff, and here it’s super soft. That’S why i say it’s a very good compromising between supporting and adapting, which is what usually happen in in the bouldering in the problems. That’S the trend like on the bouldering competitions, you step on something big which is just slippery, and you really have to use the whole surface of this part of the shoe to really like make it stick. You can have the big volume, but sometimes you can have also the small foothold to push on to be precise on, i would say solution comp for me is the choice for the lead, climbing it has. This aggressive downturn shape.

Yes, it’s the evolution of the normal solution that was born 16 years ago. Interesting thing of this resolution comp is that this part, the front part of the shoe, is completely the same of the old one. We changed nothing here. The volume are the same and the number and the thickness of layers here are the same. We changed here the heel and being softer the back part of the shoe.

It’S interesting realizing how the back part of the shoes influences also the front part of the shoe and, in the end you feel it more sensitive here on front. I think that is the mastership now for lead, climbing in indore [, Music ]. Sometimes we give advices of what is the best terrain of a single model, but then every climber have the the chance to decide and to feel on himself what is better, and i think that is also the good thing of climbing. So in general there could be some guidelines that the lighter you are the softer shoes. You should be picking.

We have the models in main version and female version. Just in the female version we use materials a little bit thinner or softer. That’S why? I always see you climbing sometimes with these sometimes with this, because i understand that you need stiffer or you need softer. Sometimes i hear people hey congratulation pietro.

We tried the last climbing shoes you you have done, no wait a moment. It’S not me doing the climbing shoes. There is an entire team behind me of super good workers on shoes, super good, modelist and climbers too, and if you give the feedback to a climber, you understand what you are

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